Tuesday, September 20, 2016

BLOG - Dry Waterfalls and Abandoned Paths of Acadia

    It was supposed to rain the past few days, especially along the coast so we’d been planning on going to Acadia to search for some waterfalls, despite Jaime still being sick. I planned on getting up early so I could hit all the potential waterfalls for my book in one day but we stayed up late last night talking and didn’t go to bed until about 4:00, something we tend to do when we have to get up early. After five hours of sleep I managed to roll out of bed and check the rain situation from last night only to find there had been none. In fact the entire past week only produced 0.07” of rain, weathermen lied again.

    We went anyway, stopping to get Jaime a lobster roll and ice cream along the way. Nothing good at Circle K this week, just some fried mushrooms which I enjoyed on the ride there, no broccoli bites or fried green beans. Acadia was covered in low clouds and fog, as we approached not a single mountaintop was visible which was a first for us. We’ve seen it foggy and in the haze but never low lying clouds that covered every summit, it looked like NH, which by the way we’ll be going to in just a few days for vacation.

    First stop of the day was to the unnamed stream I’ve called Railway River Falls, just to make sure there was no water. There wasn’t. The entire riverbed was nothing more than a trickle which is what I expected after seeing the amount of rainfall, but I needed to climb up it anyway for my book because I’d only ever been up it 0.2 mile, knowing it went another 0.3 or so up to the Cadillac Mountain Road. Since it’s going in my book I figured I should explore it all the way just in case there was something else worth mentioning up there. And it’s a good thing I did or I would have made a complete ass of myself.


    I thought the falls I found on the lower section were spectacular, oh my god, the upper portion is breathtaking. After the flat portion where I’d stopped on my previous visits there is a fifteen foot cascade down a cliff with a smaller chute right above it, making maybe a 20 to 25 foot waterfall. Shortly after that was series of falls through a ravine. Of course they were close to dry so nothing much to look at today but it did offer me the opportunity to travel straight up the riverbed, and I do mean straight up as I climbed the waterfall from one section of the ravine to the next. I made my way up it, not intending to climb the entire thing, but just to see the small overhang caves behind the highest drop. By the time I made it to the caves, I only had one more level to make it to the top, so it would have been more dangerous to climb back down the slippery rocks. I tested it for about five minutes first, making my foot slip intentionally so I could get a feel for it and know what arm muscles I’d need to use to catch myself. Without anything to hold onto, I stood backwards and pushed myself up onto the wet ledge. Scary as hell but I did it and luckily there were no slipping incidents.
Railway River Falls on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia

Railway River Falls on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia
Railway River Falls ravine on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia  The ravine didn’t stop there like I figured it would, instead continuing on through another deep gorge with flat cliffs on both sides a good twenty feet high. Now normally rock hopping up a stream is easy because the rocks are dry so you can literally hop from one to another. Unfortunately, the hundredth of an inch of rain we got last night made everything slippery and since the gorge is under tree cover, it didn’t dry out which made for a very difficult ascent and even more dangerous descent. At about this time I could hear sirens in the distance and our radio channel was being used by what sounded like a rescue team and the ones around it were also being used, probably by families driving up Cadillac Mountain, so we had to turn off our walkie talkies. I thought about turning back at the top of the ravine since we couldn’t get in touch with one another, Jaime being back at the car, but knew I was almost there so I kept going.

    What are the odds there could be another waterfall past the ravine? I mean come on, there surely would have been a trail along the brook at some point in time. But I’m the explorer here so I knew what I had to do. After the ravine opened up, it lead me to a steep forest that come Spring or a heavy rainfall would be submerged in water. The hundreds of paths the water would take were stunning, but up ahead I could see sunlight. Sunlight peaking through trees on a mountainside typically means something good is coming up. So I climbed up one of the dryer waterfall beds to find a sloping wall of rock before me with just enough water to sparkle on the granite. A slanted cascade, a hundred feet tall. Enormous. After measuring it on the map I realized a hundred feet was low balling it, the entire length of the cascade is 300 feet. Three hundred. I made my way out into the middle of it on the dry slabs of rock for a view of Eagle Lake and the cloud covered summits on the other side of it. Moss, four inches thick, bordered the streambed where small trickles of water passed beneath it at all times, making a lush forest floor.
Railway River Falls on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia

    Hearing the auto road up ahead, I made it to the top of the waterfall until hitting the road which was quite busy despite the mountain being completely in the clouds. Knowing I’d need to come back in the Spring, I went down the other side of the river to see how safe it would be and make sure there’d be views of the falls. I thought traveling up the left side would be better but now that I think about, the right is steeper but the ravine walls are higher so there isn’t any overflow. The entire way down I was walking over muddy sections that were a good 40 feet from the stream so when it’s raging I don’t think it’d even be approachable from that direction. Near the top I took a tumble on some slippery rocks, luckily I wasn’t anywhere near the ledge so I wasn’t worried about falling to my death but I did bang up my elbow pretty bad. That’ll be sore tomorrow. To make up for that, I found a cool rock caught in some branches in the mud, a souvenir from my journey. Wet and sore, I made it back to the car, excited to tell Jaime about what I’d found.
  
  From there we went over to the Witch Hole Pond parking area where I went up to the old standpipe used in the former water filtration system. It was a possible chapter for my book but there wasn’t much to see, just a giant steel tube, no cool stonework or anything. The one noteworthy thing about it is I went up a utility road that is still in use today but came down the old utility road which brought me to a rusty chain hung between two trees about ten feet from the trunk of my parked car. I didn’t even see the abandoned road literally right behind me, covered in weeds and baby trees. But the standpipe has been eliminated from my book which I kind of anticipated.
Great Hill Abandond Standpipe, Acadia

    Onto the Witch Hole Pond carriage path where 0.7 mile along it there had once been a mining quarry. So I ran most of the way there but couldn’t do the whole thing, shut up, most of it was uphill. To my surprise there was a clear path leading down to it, I kind of thought I’d have to search a bit. Also to my surprise, I wasn’t alone, there was a bike at the foot of the quarry and a gentleman across the way, sitting on a block of granite left behind from its days in operation. He mentioned that there were what appeared to be jumps and ramps here, a course for mountain bikers. That would explain the well worn path down to it. He was certainly correct, I found multiple man made ramps where people have rearranged the smaller granite blocks. It was kind of neat but nothing worthy of going into the book which means another scrapped chapter. I was hoping for large drop offs and big piles of rocks, deep pools of water, but it was all pretty flat, I think the highest ledge was maybe five feet. Oh well, moving on.
Witch Hole Mining Quarry, Acadia

    I had wanted to go up the South Slope Slide and get some dark and ominous pictures from it but with the wet rocks, that would be beyond stupid. After one fall already, and bleeding scratches on both of my shins, I decided to play it safe and return to Latet Cave as I’ve come to call it. Latet means ‘hidden’ in Latin. We first found the cave early last summer but weren’t able to locate it again, after multiple attempts. About a month ago, while searching for the abandoned White Path, we found the cave again, but when I went to write my directions to it, we had no clue how we got there. All we knew was that we went into the woods a ways and followed the rock ledge, not exactly the most decisive directions. So today I planned on finding it and then walking in a straight line back to the road so we could give the most direct route, or hell, any route at all.
Latet Cave, Acadia

    In my explorations I actually found another old section of trail we missed last year, despite being on it at least once. The stone steps were a little eroded but still visible, and useable as well. I knew I’d be coming up on the cave pretty soon, I had to be close, but I got sidetracked. The remains of the old trail began to lead upwards, up an easy graded slope located between a rock cliff on the right, and a drop-off on the left. It was the easy path we’d found last year up the ridiculously hard to climb rock ledges. We found it twice but both times were accidental, when we
Abandoned White Path, AcadiaAbandoned White Path, Acadiasearched it was quite elusive. But that was definitely it, no question. It was the old trail, we’d been on it all along. And to top things off, fifty feet beside it, along the lower ledge, Latet Cave, hiding in its boulder strewn corner. The two things I was looking for were right next to one another. I happily told Jaime what I’d found over the walkie talkies and she told me to go up and get the pictures I needed for the book since I was already there, despite her having to pee.

So up the easy route I went, recognizing all the landmarks we’d taken note of last summer. Despite having been there a handful of times, I had barely any pictures because the battery on both my camera and my phone were pretty much dead. The pictures I do have aren’t nearly good enough to go in a book, so I needed not just directions but photographic evidence that the amazing natural features on the side of the mountain really do exist. And sure enough, the easy path, which is actually steep, slippery and eroded, brought me to the exact spot I knew it would. Despite being a fairly difficult climb, it’s short and a hell of a lot easier and less dangerous than scaling the cliff like we’ve done before.
dry gorge on Abandoned White Path, Acadia

    I finally got pictures of the dry ravine that I believe had been a river after the last ice age due to the smooth, oddly shaped walls in the gorge. Not only did I take pictures, I took video too, so I’ll know exactly how to get there now. The path goes from the cave, up to the gorge, over a large crack in the rock with the assistance of some iron handrails, through a tight squeeze between a rock cliff and a boulder, then into a slab cave and ending at a rock wall we’ve come to know as waterfall rock. I took video footage of the entire trail so I can do an easy write up for it in the book, no more questioning how the hell I got there. From waterfall rock, you can follow the stream downhill and it’ll pop out right along the road which we discovered last time while searching for the trail. Put it all together and we have the start and end to a loop hike.
Waterfall Rock on Abandoned White Path, Acadia

    It got too dark to film anymore but getting back to Latet Cave was straight forward, following the remains of the old trail. From there, 160 steps straight through the woods brought me to the road. Not only to the road, but to our original starting place from last year. All we had to do was walk in a straight line, lol, we’d been going diagonal the whole time. So even though I didn’t find any new destinations for my book, I finished up three of the incomplete ones I had, making it a successful day.

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

BLOG - The Sun And Moon Over Acadia

    I’m getting over my cold but Jaime’s is unfortunately just beginning. We had planned on going to Acadia today but when she started getting sick last night I knew that wouldn’t be happening because last week it was me canceling. But she woke up at 10:30 and decided she didn’t want to be laying around the house all day because it’d only make her feel worse. So we headed out a little late, surprisingly remembering to pack everything in our last minute rush, except for the walkie talkies. It’ll take a little while before we get used to having them but man are they great.

    I hadn’t eaten anything and amazingly they had all my favorites at Circle K, the broccoli and cheddar bites, the fried green beans, the macaroni and cheese bites and the onion rings. Jaime wasn’t hungry due to the cold so didn’t really get anything, just some blueberry bread because the banana was gone. We stopped at the Bear Brook Picnic Area for lunch, the weather was absolutely perfect. It was in the 70’s, a nice breeze, barely any clouds, that’s part of the reason we decided to go in the first place.

Huguenot Head and Dorr Mountain seen from Robin Hood Hill, Acadia
    After eating I decided to run up Robin Hood Hill to see if I could get some good pictures as mine from last time sucked, mostly due to the overcast day, partly due to the limited views from the previously unnamed peak. Running up didn’t go quite as planned, the cold was still kicking my ass so after coughing and wheezing for a good minute, I caught my breath and walked the rest of the way at a normal pace. The pictures came out fantastic on the bright and sunny day so Robin Hood Hill isn’t getting kicked out of my upcoming book like we thought it would.

    From there I wanted to head over to Schooner Head Road since it was just about low tide. Last time I was almost positive I spotted a sea cave in the distance that was under water at high tide. Of course it was from a distance so what looked like a cave was most likely just a small rock overhang that created a shadow but I had to find out for sure. So I made my way out around the huge patch of poison ivy and down to the barnacle covered rocks below the tide line. Even from a few hundred feet away, it sure did look like a cave. I carefully picked my way across the rockslide at the base of the fifty foot cliff where there was a cool overhang next to what had to be a cave.


Sea Cave in Acadia    Yes, there was an overhanging rock ledge and a small hole that both could have been mistaken for caves from a distance, and then there was the real deal, an actual sea cave, partially underwater even at low tide. It was huge, maybe 25 feet high by 15 wide, waves echoing from inside the giant chamber. A narrow rock ledge rounded the corner into the cave, giving me just a few foot shelf to stand on. From my perch near the roof of the cave I could see that it went back roughly 30 feet , maybe more as part of it was obstructed from view. The floor was covered in
Sea Cave in Acadiabattered stones that rolled around with every wave that crashed against them. I tried to find a way down but the rocks were too smooth to be able to climb them. I think in order to get into the cave I’ll have to go back at low tide on a calm day and swim my way into it. Unfortunately there’s no good place to tie a rope to so it’ll be a somewhat dangerous mission but I won’t be able to stop thinking about that cave until I get inside. There are also some amazing bands of quartz rock on one of the boulders that fell from the cliff, it looks almost like an exposed geode so next time I’m bringing my hammer and chisel to see if I can get a chunk.

Champlain Mountain from Highseas Summit    After spending more time than I intended down there I climbed up the nearby peak I’ve named Highseas Summit and got some good photos from the top to replace my dull ones from last time, another destination in my book that got saved from the chopping block due to a few incredible pictures. Not having the walkie talkies really sucked because we couldn’t stay in constant communication, I hate it when Jaime’s in the car worrying about me. They really do come in handy and we’ve only used them on two trips now, I’m not sure how we ever survived without them.

Champlain Mountain from Thrumcap Ledge    For our next stop Jaime decided to escort me. The fresh ocean air helped with her breathing a bit and we explored an area I’ve nicknamed Thrumcap Ledge. Last time it was raining and getting dark so I had to cut my exploration short so this time we went down an abandoned side road that brought us out to the shore where there was a rocky beach and a huge rock outcropping jutting out into the ocean that we climbed up. Found a few cool rocks along the way too.

Day Mountain Cliff Cave, Acadia    We planned on circling around and hopping back onto the park loop road but the street we needed was closed off for construction so we headed out to Day Mountain instead where I continued my search to re-find the caves. After two failed attempts I began to question how I was going to write a book directing people to awesome destinations if I couldn’t even get to them my damn self, and I’d been there before. So after exploring the side of the mountain the hard way, I finally found the caves. When I first went to the caves a couple years ago with my parents, there had been some recent rain and one of the caves required climbing a rope to get to it but it was too wet at the time. And the real cave of Day Mountain, an honest to god cave, was incredible, but my pictures weren’t. So I brought my tripod with me to get some better photos this time around.

Matt in Day Mountain Cave, Acadia    Unfortunately the rope into the first cave is gone and I wasn’t able to free climb my way up to the fifteen foot high entrance with my limited rock climbing ability. Maybe if someone had been with me, but not alone on the edge of a cliff. So I gave up on that cave early on and spent the majority of my time in the real cave. I took a bunch of measurements for my book and got some good photos and video as well.
Day Mountain Cave, Acadia
     I knew I was in there for awhile but I looked at my phone and it said two hours had gone by. In return I said oh shit and knew I’d have to run back, Jaime would be worried and probably out searching for me, thinking I got hurt or lost. No cell reception whatsoever. So I took note of where I was and found a much easier way to get to the caves so now they’ll be easy to find. I ran along the carriage path and got back to the car in record time where Jaime was waiting patiently, reading, not the least bit concerned. As I huffed and puffed, trying to regain my composure from my run, I apologized for being gone so long. She said it wasn’t all that long and sure enough it wasn’t, the clock in the car was an hour slow. Turns out my phone switched time zones and thought we were in Canada.

Moon over Hunter Cliff Trail, Acadia    From there we drove a couple minutes to an abandoned cliff trail along the shore that my parents and I stumbled upon about a month ago. I had some great pictures of it but with the moon coming out early tonight, I figured some shots with the moon would be great. Plus, there was a section I wanted to explore further but it required some free climbing which I don’t like doing unless Jaime is below me to tell me where to place my feet on the way down just in case I need help. So we found a better parking area for the hike that cut out almost all of the 0.7 mile trail, making it an easy five minute walk.

Abnandoned Hunter Cliff Shore Trail, Acadia    Aside from the nearly full moon there was also an enormous cruise ship that had docked in Bar Harbor earlier and was now headed out to sea, making for some perfect photos of it directly beneath the moon. With Jaime by my side I easily climbed the small ledge and got to explore the upper half of the abandoned trail. It’s amazing that after well over a hundred years, even with no maintenance, the iron railings are still standing strong. She got some video footage of me climbing the ledge and then some amazing pictures of me at the railing with the sunset over the ocean. We had a blast but the breeze had completely died off which brought out droves of mosquitoes.

Moon at Cooksey Drive Overlook, Acadia
    After taking a bunch of pictures we made our way back to the car but with the moon illuminating the sky, I ran down the new trail to an overlook and got a ton more photos of the moon over the ocean, reflecting off the water. I’m not usually by the ocean at night so this is the first time I’ve had a chance to photograph anything like this. With my new camera the pictures came out incredible. There was also a huge split in the rock cliff, creating what must have been a 40 foot drop as waves crashed inside the narrow crevice. Had it not been dark I would have explored it a bit more, maybe someday I’ll make it down in there during low tide.

Matt on Abnandoned Hunter Cliff Shore Trail, Acadia    So I only made it to a couple of my destinations but we had a great day anyway. On our way home I had a craving for Chinese food so we stopped at Asian Palace right before they closed and I had a delicious supper. My legs were a little sore the next day, mostly my quads, but man was it worth it. The pictures came out perfect, now it’s just a matter of narrowing it down and picking the best one from each spot. The book was complete at 40 destinations but I decided to bring it up to 50 so only a few left to go. We’ll try to get there next week before our New Hampshire vacation, so much to look forward to, I love it.